Alan Phillip (Big Al) Thompson's
Bicentennial Bicycle Retrace of
The Lewis and Clark Trail
from Saint Louis, Missouri, on 06/22/2005
to Astoria and Seaside, Oregon, ~09/01/2005

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Bicycle Road Trip Report 2 of 10, 07/05/2005,
Sioux City, Iowa

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Dear Friends and Family,

      75 miles into a headwind — and sick. That rather sums up my ride yesterday from Council Bluffs, Iowa, to Lewis and Clark State Park outside of Onaway, Iowa. More about that in a minute.

      I'm writing this from Sioux City, Iowa. It was here on August 20, 1804, that Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery lost their only man during the entire two-and-one-half year journey — Charles Floyd. Lewis diagnosed it as "bilious cholic," but most experts believe it was a burst appendix. They did everything for him that was in their power to do. He was considered a "man of much merit" by both Lewis and Clark. From Clark's journal: "Floyd died with a great deal of composure ... before his death, he said to me 'I am going away ...'"

      Tomorrow I will visit his gravesite and monutment — an obelisk that stands on a bluff overlooking the Missouri River.

      The men of the Corps had an election to replace Sergeant Floyd, and they chose Patrick Gass. This was the first American election west of the Mississippi. Gass would become the oldest surviving member of the Expedition and the only one for whom we have an actual photograph.

      Ironically, I've also taken somewhat ill at this same spot. I caught a nasty cold somehow. After visiting a wonderful new Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in Nebraska City, I rode the 50 or so miles to Council Bluffs with an amazing tail wind that got me there by noon. But by then, I was starting to feel not so well. Then yesterday, July 4th, after awaking with a fever, scratchy throat, and feeling weak, I rode 75 miles into a headwind and made it late into the campground at Lewis and Clark State Park. They have reconstructed the boats that were used on the Expedition and they take visitors out on the Blue Lake. But even before the fireworks over the lake had ceased, I was already crashed in my tent.

      I continue to "proceed on." I have been meeting up with Polly and Chris — the two lady cyclists who are also riding The Trail — in the campgrounds. We seem to be leap-frogging our way along the trail. It's nice to have a little company to talk over the day's ride and share stories of the road — and yes, it does get a little lonely out here at times.

      Tomorrow, after 700 miles on the Trail, I will forge on into South Dakota. I hope you all had a safe and sane Fourth of July celebration. Incidentally, it was on July 4, 1805 — the Corps of Discovery's second Indpendence Day on their great journey — that catastrophe really struck — they ran out of whiskey!

      Take care all!

      — Al Thompson

P.S. Once again, those of you who have lists, please forward to those who may be interested.